At Poonam’s House, we have always strived to stay true to our values of sustainability and tradition. Whether in our home furnishings or wearable accessories, we focus on natural processes and products, ensuring that our collections remain both ethical and eco-friendly. Our tagline, “Ethically crafted collections inspired by Indian traditions,” reflects this unwavering commitment. One of the cornerstones of our production for over 15 years has been the use of natural indigo dyes, and while Indigo remains a staple, we’ve also had the pleasure of incorporating other rare, natural pigments into our work.
One such pigment is Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia), a natural red dye sourced from a plant deeply rooted in India’s history. This perennial climbing plant, also known as the Indian madder, thrives in high altitudes, particularly in the Indian Himalayas, as well as other parts of Asia and Africa. Though closely related to the coffee plant, Manjistha is most celebrated for its vibrant red pigment, which has been used for centuries to colour fabrics and cosmetics.
Manjistha’s roots are where the magic happens, thick and long, they are the source of the deep red hues that artisans have worked with for generations. At Poonam’s House, we are honoured to collaborate with a small studio in Rajasthan that still works with Manjistha, along with other natural dyes like turmeric, pomegranate, and indigo.
By using these natural pigments, we are not only upholding centuries-old techniques but also offering our customers a piece of India’s rich textile history. Each piece created with these dyes is a testament to the beauty and sustainability of nature—a true reflection of our ethos.
Join us in exploring the world of natural pigments and the timeless elegance they bring to our collections.
Process of dyeing with Indian Madder (Manjishtha)
Step 1: Fabric Preparation
Wash the grey fabric thoroughly in hot water to remove any impurities.
Soak the fabric overnight to remove starch, dry it in the sun and it is ready for printing.
Step 2: Pre-Mordanting
Dye the fabric in Myrobalan (Harda) solution for pre-mordanting.
Allow the fabric to dry completely after dyeing.
Step 3: Preparation of Shyahi (Black Pigment Print)
Combine iron acetate, jaggery, and water in a container.
Soak the mixture for 25 days to develop the desired pigment.
Mix the resulting pigment with gum prepared from powdered tamarind seeds to create a paste.
Step 4: Preparation of Bager (Red Pigment for Printing)
Mix powdered tamarind seed gum with alum and water to prepare the red pigment.
Use the prepared shyahi and bager pastes to print the designs onto the fabric.
Step 5: Drying and Washing
Allow the printed fabric to dry thoroughly in the sun.
Wash the fabric to remove any excess pigment or impurities.
Step 6: Fixation Process
Prepare a solution containing water, alizarin, and Woodfordia fruticosa (Dhavdi phool).
Boil the fabric in this solution to fix the shyahi and bager pigments onto the fabric.
Step 7: Preparation of Manjistha Dye
Boil madder twigs in water to extract the Manjistha dye.
Strain the dye solution using a cotton cloth to remove any solid particles.
Step 8: Dyeing with Manjistha
Immerse the fabric in the prepared Manjistha dye solution.
Ensure thorough saturation of the fabric with the dye.
Step 9: Post- Mordant
Wash the dyed fabric in a solution of alum water for post-mordanting.
Step 10: Final Processing
Wash the fabric to remove any excess dye or mordants.
Allow the fabric to dry completely.
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