Indigo is one of the most cherished and widely used natural dyes, with a history stretching back millennia. And probably the most varied, there are several hundred varieties of Indico Shrub. The Greeks referred to it as Indikon, meaning "Indian dye," highlighting its origins and deep connection to South and Southeast Asia. This dye has been embraced by civilizations across the Middle East and Asia, treasured for its rich, deep blue hue.
Derived from the leaves of a shrub that produces colourful flowers, indigo’s beauty lies in its natural extraction process. The leaves are fermented to create the iconic blue pigment, which is then used to dye textiles. Despite its ancient roots, indigo remains a staple in both traditional and contemporary design.
At Poonam’s House, indigo has been a permanent part of our collections for over 15 years. We collaborate with skilled artisans in Rajasthan to craft a wide range of home furnishings and wearable fashion pieces, all infused with the timeless beauty of natural indigo dye. This collaboration allows us to honour the tradition of indigo dyeing while creating products that blend ancient techniques with modern aesthetics.
Indigo’s enduring appeal speaks to its versatility and elegance—qualities we are proud to share with our customers.
Step 1: Fabric Preparation
Wash the grey fabric thoroughly by soaking it in hot water overnight, dry it in the sun, and the fabric is ready for printing.
Step 2: Preparing the Dabu Paste
Dabu printing starts with preparing a sticky paste of clay by mixing black soil, calcium
hydroxide (chuna), and a solution of water and gum from Acacia (babul) for binding. The paste is strained through a fine cotton cloth twice for smooth consistency. The mud-resist prevents colour penetration while dyeing, leaving the area white after washing.
Step 3: Printing Outline (Rekha)
Start the process of printing with the outline of a motif first in a dark blue pigment, with the help of a wooden block. After this, print the area in dabu that is required to be white.
Step 4: Drying and Resting Period
Dry the printed fabric in the sun. Allow the fabric to rest for 3 days to ensure complete drying.
Step 5: Indigo Dyeing
Immerse the fabric in an Indigo dye bath and ensure thorough saturation of the fabric with the
Indigo dye. Indigo is a cold dye, and the vats are prepared by the process of fermentation.
Step 6: Post-Mordant Treatment
Wash the dyed fabric in alum water to enhance colour fastness and remove the mud from dabu printing.
Step 7: Dyeing with Kashish ( ferrous sulphate)
Dye the fabric in Kashish to impart a grey tone to the white motifs.
Step 8: Final Processing
Wash the fabric to remove any excess dye or mordants.
Allow the fabric to dry completely in the sun.
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